Friday 7 February 2020

Hinemoa & Tūtānekai - a love story


This story is one of the most well-known and re-told Māori stories in New Zealand and this version will be told using the account written by Don Stafford.

Hinemoa lived at Owhata and was the daughter of a very influential chief of that area named Umukaria and his wife Hinemaru. Because of her high rank Hinemoa was made puhi (declared tapu). Under this circumstance a husband would be chosen for her by her hapū when she reached maturity. Many people came from afar to seek the hand of Hinemoa in marriage, but her people would not consent to any of these suitors.

Hinemoa sitting on Iri iri kapua
part of a carving in Rotorua Library

made by New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute 1991

Tūtānekai was the stepson of Whakaue and was born and lived on Mokoia Island. Tūtānekai was a pōriro (illegitimate child). His mother, Rangiuru, was married to the chief Whakaue, but had an affair with Tūwharetoa.  Whakaue treated the child of this liaison, Tūtānekai, as his own. Each of Tūtānekai’s elder brothers Tawakeheimoa, Tuteaiti and Ngararanui declared his love for Hinemoa and claimed that he would win her. But this was not to be, for though each in turn asked Umukaria for her hand he refused them all.

Tutānekai playing the flute
part of a carving in Rotorua Library

made by New Zealand Māori Arts and Crafts Institute 1991

In those times many meetings held in various villages to discuss matters of state regarding the tribe, and at these meetings many young chiefs saw Hinemoa and fell in love with her. It was so with Tūtānekai, but because of his lowly birth he would not consider asking for her. Hinemoa had not been unaware of this young man. Tūtānekai excelled at all the games held on these occasions. His ability with the taiaha and the mere was unsurpassed, and he was of great stature and very handsome.

Hinemoa found that she had fallen in love with this man, even though she had never so much as spoken a word to him. At each subsequent meeting, their love for each other increased, but they were able to convey it to each other only by looks and glances.

This was a sad state of affairs, for each loved the other to distraction but could see no way of it ever being requited. Tūtānekai at night would sit with his friend Tiki on a rise behind Kaiweka Pa and there they would play sad music. It has always been agreed that music was played for the benefit of Hinemoa, but there is some doubt about who was responsible. Most stories speak of Tūtānekai playing the flute (known as Murirangaranga), and it is currently in the care of Te Whare Taonga o Te Arawa, Rotorua Museum. This taonga has been placed with the museum for safekeeping, reflecting the mutual understanding and trust between Auckland Museum, Rotorua Museum and local iwi, hapū and whānau. Others, such as Hapeta te Hautehoro, say that it was Tiki who played the flute and not Tūtānekai. Maggie Papakura says that they both had and played instruments, so it is not too clear just what was the position. The music that was played floated across Lake Rotorua to where Hinemoa sat listening. She was filled with sadness and decide that she could never marry anyone but Tūtānekai. Her people began to suspect this and thinking that she might try to go to Mokoia to see Tūtānekai they dragged the canoes well up onto the beach each night.

Koauau (flute)
Carved by Thomas Hansen
Loaned from the Rotorua Museum Education Team

Night after night she listened to the music, until in the end it was more than she could bear and she decided that if she could not use a canoe to get to Mokoia she would swim. The next night she told her people that she was going to the whare tapere (the house where dances were performed and games played); but instead of doing this she went to the cooking house, from which she took six calabashes. 

She then went to the large rock called Iri iri kapua (which can still be seen at Owhata), where she rested while making the calabashes into a sort of primitive set of water wings. 

Iri iri kapua - Hinemoa's Rock
Owhata, Rotorua, New Zealand
Photograph by Graeme Cash

Then she went down to the beach at a place called Wairerewai, slipped into the water and began to swim for Mokoia. After swimming for some time she came to a stump in the lake called Hinewhata, which her father Umukaria, used for tying bunches of fern to when he was fishing for koura. Here she rested and then continued on to Mokoia, being guided all the time by the sounds of the music coming across the water. At last she landed on the shore of the island. But she was so cold that she made straight for the warm bathing pool called Waikimihia, which was just below the house of Tūtānekai. She stayed in the water until her limbs became quite warmed up and then she began to feel shy because she had no clothing in which to dress.

Hinemoa's Bath
Mokoia Island, Rotorua
Photograph used with the permission of Rotorua Museum

It so happened that at this time Tūtānekai became thirsty and so sent his slave down to the lake to fetch him a calabash of water. The slave had to pass quite close to the bath in which Hinemoa was sitting, and as he did so a gruff voice said to him; “Mo wai te wai?” (For whom is the water?). The slave answered; “Mo Tūtānekai” (It is for Tūtānekai). “Give it to me,” said Hinemoa, and as soon as the slave handed her the calabash she smashed it against the side of the bath. The slave asked her why she had done this but she would not give him an answer. When the slave returned to Tūtānekai he told him that the calabash was broken and so Tūtānekai made him go again with another to fetch him water. Once more Hinemoa persuaded the slave to hand her the calabash, and again she smashed it on the side of the pool. This time the slave reported to Tūtānekai that some man in the pool had once more broken the calabash. Tūtānekai was so angry that he decided to go down to the pool himself. He then dressed in his rapaki, with a kahakaha cloak around his shoulders and a tawaru cloak outside that, and with a greenstone mere in his hand went to fight the stranger who dared to break his calabashes.

Hue (Gourd)
Hinemoa may have used something similar in her swim to Mokoia Island
Loaned from the Rotorua Museum Education Team

When he arrived at the pool he challenged whoever it was in the bath to show himself; but there was no movement at all. Again he called, and still there was no sound or movement. Hinemoa had moved to where a small overhanging rock afforded her some cover and there she stayed as still as a mouse. Then Tūtānekai felt around the edge until he reached the place where Hinemoa was crouching. He caught her by the hair and pulled her clear. “Who are you?” he cried. “Who dares to annoy me?” Then she answered, “It is I, Hinemoa, who has come to you.” he could hardly believe his ears and when she stepped out of the water he was sure he had never seen anyone in his life so beautiful; she was like the kotuku. Then Tūtānekai took off one of his cloaks and covered her with it and they returned to his house, where they slept. Thus they were married.

In the morning the people of Kaiwaka Pā arose for work and to prepare food and all remarked on the fact that Tūtānekai was this morning sleeping very late – as a rule he was one of the first to rise. His father began to think that perhaps the young man was ill and so sent a slave to call him. The slave went to Tūtānekai’s house and looked inside and to his amazement he saw four feet.

The slave reported this to Whakaue, who at once sent the slave back to make quite sure. This time the slave looked more carefully and recognised Hinemoa; such was his surprise that he began to call out; “It is Hinemoa with Tūtānekai, it is Hinemoa”. Many would not believe this, particularly the elder brothers of Tūtānekai, and they claimed that the slave was telling lies. However, just at that time Tūtānekai came out of his house with Hinemoa beside him, and everyone knew that it was true. At the same time a fleet of canoes was observed coming from Owhata and they all knew that it would be Umukaria coming to take Hinemoa back to her home. Instead of war, there was great rejoicing and a lasting peace was made between the two peoples.

Written by Ani Sharland, with thanks to the Don Stafford Collection, The Rotorua Museum Education Team and Rotorua Museum